Puppies for sale -Members

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How to find a puppy

If you are thinking you would love to own a Rottweiler puppy (and why wouldn’t you!), here are a few pointers to get you started:

Things to consider first:

  • Why do you want a puppy rather than a previously loved, more mature Rottie?  There are several Rottweiler Rescue Centres that take on dogs and puppies for lots of reasons – usually just because the owner’s circumstances have changed.  Most accredited breeders will also take back a puppy they have bread for any reason – if the puppy is still a puppy right up to a very old “puppy”. We can put you in touch with a Rescue or a breeder if you can offer a for-ever home for one of these special dogs
  • Do you want a boy or a girl?  Both sexes have different gifts to offer but also have different challenges.  You will rarely be encouraged to have a male Rottie if you are a first-time large-breed owner
  • Do you have the time to train your puppy, and to look after an adult?  Rotties MUST be trained and don’t do well if you ignore them for long periods of time. If you don’t have the time, perhaps a different breed would be better – or a rabbit?
  • Why do you want Rottweiler specifically? If it’s just to guard you or to show-off, please don’t get one
  • What do you want to do with your Rottie?  As pet/companion? To Show? Working trials? Different puppies have different characters and your breeder will help you pick the right one for you
  • Can you afford a Rottie?  All dogs can be expensive to look after but big dogs have bigger appetites, bigger accessories – and bigger vet bills

Once you have decided a Rottie is for you, and you want a puppy, how do you go about picking a breeder?

  • Contact a Breed Club, like the SWRA, and just ask is always the best start.  We are all passionate about Rotties and will only recommend a breeder we know is equally as passionate
  • Please DON’T buy a puppy from Ebay or a website that could belong to a Puppy-Farmer
  • There are some sites that are sponsored by responsible breeders, like www.champdogs.co.uk but try to get a personal recommendation as well

Once you have decided on a breeder, there are a few things to look for before you commit yourself:

  • The health of your puppy should be your, and your breeder’s, primary concern.  This starts with the health of the parents.  Both parents MUST have:
    • Their hips and elbows x-rayed to show a reduced risk of passing on hip and elbow dysplasia.  The recommendation is that animals are not bread with if its hip score is 13 or over (for example, one hip is 8 and the other is 5) or if either elbow scores 3.  If both parents have scores in the highest range, this would be seen as a higher risk.  For more information on hip and elbow dysplasia, see:

www.bva.co.uk/canine-health-schemes/hip-scheme and www.bva.co.uk/canine-health-schemes/elbow-scheme

  • Juvenile Laryngeal Paralysis & Polyneuropathy (JLPP) and Leukoencephalomyelopathy (LEMP) are horrible, hereditary diseases and any reputable breeder will ensure they never mate two carriers of these defective genes

The Kennel Club publish these results so if your breeder cannot prove to you the tests have been done, and they are not on the Kennel Club’s website, they probably haven’t been done!

  • Additional health tests could include:
    • Multifocal Retinal Dysplasia (MRD) for eyes
    • Heart tests
    • Degenerative Myelopathy/ Radiculomyelopathy (DM Exon 02)
    • X-linked Myotubular Myopathy (XLMTM)
    • Neuroaxonal Dystrophy (NAD)
    • Long Coat (hair) length

For further information, see www.thekennelclub.org.uk/health-and-dog-care/health/getting-started-with-health-testing-and-screening/dna-testing

  • You should be able to see Mum with her puppies
  • Your puppy should be at least 8 weeks old, and come with:
    • Confirmation the puppy has been assessed by a vet, and include its age when assessed, its weight and any defects noted
    • A Microchip certificate, with details how to inform the provider of your details
    • A Kennel Club Registration or Application Form
    • A Three-Generation Pedigree (at least), satisfactory Diet Sheet, Inoculation detail and worming record


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